Acne Causes, Triggers and Treatments
Acne can occur at any age and is extremely distressing. It’s hard to camouflage and can cause anxiety and a lack of confidence.
Many myths surround acne so let’s set the record straight
Acne is not caused by bad-hygiene or dirty skin
Despite what TikTok says applying toothpaste to spots will not help
Squeezing spots is not a good idea and will likely make it worse
Cosmetics do not cause acne but cosmetic products should always be non-comedogenic (non spot forming)
Acne is not infectious
What causes acne?
and most importantly what are the evidence-based treatments that work?
Sebaceous glands, tiny glands in the skin attached to hair follicles produce an oily substance to lubricate the skin called sebum. Acne is formed when these glands begin to produce too much sebum. The excess sebum mixes with dead skin cells and both substances form a plug in the follicle. If the plugged follicle is close to the surface of the skin, it bulges outwards, creating a whitehead. Alternatively, the plugged follicle can be open to the skin, creating a blackhead. Normally harmless bacteria that live on the skin can then contaminate and infect the plugged follicles, causing papules, pustules, nodules or cysts.
What Triggers Acne?
Acne triggers in women
Hormones
Periods
Pregnancy
Poly cystic ovary syndrome
Certain medications
High glycaemic diet
Acne triggers in men
Increased testosterone
What Acne Treatments Work?
The aim is to reduce the sebum and congestion without over doing it. If we destroy too much of this lubricating oil it can have the opposite effect and cause an increase in the production! Let’s look at what active ingredients are known to help.
Evidence based ingredients include:
Salicylic acid
Lactic acid
Glycolic acid
Benzyl-peroxide
Tretinoin
These active ingredients all decrease the congestion in the hair follicle/gland and be used in topical medicines / serums or in the form of peels. Benzyl-peroxide on its own has limitations. It can cause contact dermatitis as it is very harsh and will likely bleach towels so make sure you have separate ones for your face. Recent innovations in products such as OBAGI Clenziderm use formulations of benzyl-peroxide with microsphere technology allowing smaller particles to penetrate into the hair follicle with less irritation. Salicylic acid is known to be safe and effective in reducing comedones. Tretinoin: This is a very high concentrate form of Vitamin A. It is only available on prescription and is a supercharged Retinol known also for its anti-ageing benefits. Tretinoin works by breaking down the comedon and neutralising the lining of the follicle to prevent further formation. Tretinoin is not only a successful acne treatment but will also help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Antibiotics
Acne can be both bacterial and fungal or a combination of both. Treating with oral medication can be tricky if it is not clear what the target pathogen is. At KLINIK we recommend Plasma that will sterilise the skin and kill both. Plasma was originally used in wars to sterilize wounds and equipment. It has now been harnessed as a non-invasive, clinical treatment that can be used on its own or as part of a combination treatment.
Everyone is individual and your treatment plan will always be bespoke, from our range of treatments including: A non-invasive combination treatment of LED light therapy and plasma can be a good starting point, especially for sensitive skins. OBAGI skin products to use at home, Skin peels, Micro-needling and radio-frequency is useful for acne scarring when treatment has finished but not for use during active acne. Intra-dermal botox can reduce oiliness in specific areas.
